Awoke to a light drizzle and a chilly breeze. Slept well but the leg is still not operating at 100%. I considered renting a car or moped; they won't give me a big boy bike. In the end, I decided to take it easy today. Bought some groceries and came back to the sobe to catch up on my writing. If I ever return to these type of islands, I should remember that transportation is critical. Bring a bike or car or rent one. There is only a couple hours worth of site-seeing in these small villages. The island does look interesting and I would like to explore it more. There is a bus route that can take you to the other communities on the island. Just do not feel driven to do it. A down day is called for. Tomorrow morning I need to be at the dock by 8:45am for my 7 hour ferry to Dubrovnik. No reserved room in Dubrovnik, I will look for another sobe – more likely, the owner will find me.
Monday, September 22, 2008
Sunday, September 21, 2008
The village
This is the first time, given an opportunity to climb a steep hill to get a great view of the surrounding, I have not risen to the occasion. My leg is dragging me down. I pushed it too hard yesterday in Spilt. I did wander around the village and the port. I stopped at one point and took off my sneakers and socks to wade in the Aegean. I plunged in and immediately my boys ran screaming up to my liver. Holy shit it was cold! It took several hours of coaxing for them to return to their nature place and order was restored.
From what I can see, the island is very nice. There is a protected bay where the small boats dock. Hills rise up all around the village. I wanted to get up one side or the other but it is not to be. The oldest part of the village is all stone. Stone streets and stone houses. The streets are too narrow for cars and there are no sidewalks. Very nice. The newer part of town, new being a relative term, is filled with homes, stores, and the expected conveniences of today's life. What I find most interesting are the yards. Nary a blade of grass. Each yard is taken up with fruit trees, grape vines, and vegetable gardens. The only large areas of grass is in the village park and the football pitch, otherwise, the surface is composed of crushed stone, small rocks, gravel, and sand or gardens.
Pizza for dinner. I gave it one more shot. This time I decided to not try something crazy like ham and pineapple or sausage. I chose a regional specialty, Frutti del Mar, a seafood pizza. To say that it was a mistake would be an understatement. I give up on pizza here in Europe. Dessert was great as usual. Thank god for gelatto.
Went for a walk on the outskirt of the village after dinner. The sun had already set. A man not a year older than 128 puttered by in a small tractor towing a cart filled with freshly picked produce. He had come from the surrounding hills. What was remarkably about this is as he passed me, I nodded in greeting and he returned the greeting with a flourish by removing his hat and giving me a sitting bow. The people are friendly.
From what I can see, the island is very nice. There is a protected bay where the small boats dock. Hills rise up all around the village. I wanted to get up one side or the other but it is not to be. The oldest part of the village is all stone. Stone streets and stone houses. The streets are too narrow for cars and there are no sidewalks. Very nice. The newer part of town, new being a relative term, is filled with homes, stores, and the expected conveniences of today's life. What I find most interesting are the yards. Nary a blade of grass. Each yard is taken up with fruit trees, grape vines, and vegetable gardens. The only large areas of grass is in the village park and the football pitch, otherwise, the surface is composed of crushed stone, small rocks, gravel, and sand or gardens.
Pizza for dinner. I gave it one more shot. This time I decided to not try something crazy like ham and pineapple or sausage. I chose a regional specialty, Frutti del Mar, a seafood pizza. To say that it was a mistake would be an understatement. I give up on pizza here in Europe. Dessert was great as usual. Thank god for gelatto.
Went for a walk on the outskirt of the village after dinner. The sun had already set. A man not a year older than 128 puttered by in a small tractor towing a cart filled with freshly picked produce. He had come from the surrounding hills. What was remarkably about this is as he passed me, I nodded in greeting and he returned the greeting with a flourish by removing his hat and giving me a sitting bow. The people are friendly.
Ferry Ride to Stari Grad and a Sobe
I arrived at Stari Grad, on the island of Hvar, this morning. Ferry ride was relaxing. Spoke with an elderly man from Florida, via New Jersey, for a few minutes during the trip. He was wearing ear buds and I suddenly started wondering what was different about his generation than the comparable generation at his age from the early eighties. I do not recall people in their sixties and seventies during the eighties taking to technology as readily. So I asked him his opinion. A side note, Jim's tracks were mainly sermons and religious programs. What a find! Alas, I choose not to enter into a religious discussion – he looked tired. I suspect he may use the ear buds to escape from his wife, a woman capable of talking without the need for occasional oxygen breaks. I found it amusing when he turned on a sermon, leaned back, clasped his hands, and closed his eyes. His posture indicted deep thought; more likely a gentle slumber.
As to accommodations, I decided to let fate decide. I was not off the ferry more than 10 seconds when I was approached by a woman asking me if I needed a room. I certainly do. I know I am supposed to haggle - oddly enough, I love to argue about everything except money. So I took her offer at face value. I need to get over this weakness if I am ever to travel to much of the rest of the world. The room is clean, comfortable, and close to the square. Good. Now to visit the village, Faros, first founded in 385 BC.
As to accommodations, I decided to let fate decide. I was not off the ferry more than 10 seconds when I was approached by a woman asking me if I needed a room. I certainly do. I know I am supposed to haggle - oddly enough, I love to argue about everything except money. So I took her offer at face value. I need to get over this weakness if I am ever to travel to much of the rest of the world. The room is clean, comfortable, and close to the square. Good. Now to visit the village, Faros, first founded in 385 BC.
Saturday, September 20, 2008
Cat sanctuary
Having only one full day in Split, I awoke early and headed out to explore. For those not in the know, the Roman emperor Diocletian built a palace here that today makes up the center of town. Many of the walls from the palace still stand. Today it thrives as a tourist haven. It is on the Croatian coast and I would highly recommend it as a stopover if you are in the area.
I started in the farmers/craft market. The fruit was amazingly good. The plums and the pear that I ate were without doubt, the best I have ever eaten. I bought a variety of nuts, raisins, and cranberries and mixed them together in a plastic bag to create trail mix. I expect it to last for the reminder of my trip – a really cheap tasty snack.
Next I wandered around the palace area and then went into the ancient temple/converted church. Not much to see, but interesting, especially if you walk around while imagining yourself during an earlier time period. The catacomb is basically a basement for the temple. I suspect it was used by the Jews during their high holidays when sacrificing christian children and feasting on their remains. Whelps, perhaps my imagination went a little too far.
Later in the day, I trekked up the side of the major hill that the town is situated around. At the top of the hill is a small fortification. The view is spectacular. I stopped at the Split zoo on the way down. This is a tiny zoo. If it only possessed domesticated animals, it would have been a nice treat, especially for children. Unfortunately, the zoo has other animals for which it does not have adequate facilities. For example, 3 bears in tiny cement and metal cages. The cages reminded me of the cages used by old time traveling circuses. My non-expert opinion would be to move the larger animals to a proper setting and convert the zoo into a petting zoo. The zoo is already full of all types of farm yard animals – why not clean up the place, adjust the layout slightly, and allow for more interaction. My penny.
For those wondering about the title, I have never been to a city which so visibly contains such a large number of feral cats. They are all over. Split reminds me of Key West with their wild chickens.
I started in the farmers/craft market. The fruit was amazingly good. The plums and the pear that I ate were without doubt, the best I have ever eaten. I bought a variety of nuts, raisins, and cranberries and mixed them together in a plastic bag to create trail mix. I expect it to last for the reminder of my trip – a really cheap tasty snack.
Next I wandered around the palace area and then went into the ancient temple/converted church. Not much to see, but interesting, especially if you walk around while imagining yourself during an earlier time period. The catacomb is basically a basement for the temple. I suspect it was used by the Jews during their high holidays when sacrificing christian children and feasting on their remains. Whelps, perhaps my imagination went a little too far.
Later in the day, I trekked up the side of the major hill that the town is situated around. At the top of the hill is a small fortification. The view is spectacular. I stopped at the Split zoo on the way down. This is a tiny zoo. If it only possessed domesticated animals, it would have been a nice treat, especially for children. Unfortunately, the zoo has other animals for which it does not have adequate facilities. For example, 3 bears in tiny cement and metal cages. The cages reminded me of the cages used by old time traveling circuses. My non-expert opinion would be to move the larger animals to a proper setting and convert the zoo into a petting zoo. The zoo is already full of all types of farm yard animals – why not clean up the place, adjust the layout slightly, and allow for more interaction. My penny.
For those wondering about the title, I have never been to a city which so visibly contains such a large number of feral cats. They are all over. Split reminds me of Key West with their wild chickens.
Friday, September 19, 2008
A Day of Trains
I had a 6 am train to Zagreb today. No problem except for the lack of sleep. O, I also was taught to check distances before making plans. I knew the trip from Budapest to Zagreb would take 6 hours. I choose the first train out thinking that I could get to Zagreb by noon, spend a few hours walking the city, and then jump on a train for a short trip to Split. So much for thinking. The trip from Zagreb to Split is nearly 6 hours in duration. At least the scenery is great. Up and down and all around mountains. The last 2 hours was in darkness so if I had to do it again, I would take an earlier train from Zagreb.
I must admit that I finally lost my temper at a European today. I had arrived at the Zagreb train station and I was trying to buy the next available train ticket to Split. I started at the information window which sent me to the train information window. Unsurprisingly, she sent me to the ticketing window at the other side of the station. After waiting in line for 20 minutes, I get to the counter and attempt to by a ticket. I am refused. The teller tells me no. Her command of English revolves around “no” and “information booth”. I return to train information line and queue. What is interesting is that the train information person does not speak English well and refers me to the basic information queue. There I am told that everything is ok and that I must have been standing in the international line. I assure here that I was not since I stood in the line that did not have the word “international” in it. She shrugged and directed back across the station from whence I came. Once again, I was refused and sent back to information. At information, I am finally told that the computers are down and that they can not sell tickets. What! People are buying tickets as we speak. She shrugged again and wandered away. Back to the train line, I went. I was in luck to get the same woman for the third time. I asked for a ticket to Split once again. She shook her head and said something to the young woman at the next counter who, in passable English, asked me what was wrong. I said that I wanted to buy a ticket to Split. Her response was predictable.
Ticket Seller #2: Sorry. We can not sell tickets. Computers are down.
Me: What. Wait. What did you just give to that woman? (Pointing to Woman in line 2.) (WTF – A man behind me in line #1 had just bought a ticket! Everyone is buying tickets!!!!!!)
Ticket Seller #2: A train ticket.
Me to Strange Women buying ticket: Excuse me, where is the ticket for?
Strange Women buying ticket: Split
Me: You sell her a ticket to Split but you will not sell one to me?
Ticket Seller #2: Yes, she is going today to Split.
Me: So am I.
Ticket Seller #2: Then you already have a ticket?
(long diatribe follows)
I am going to stop here and say that I am humbly grateful for the designers of plexiglass and the thoughtful engineer that decided that it was only necessary to have two small hole - one for the passage of money/tickets and the other for sound. If not for these two things, I may have been a guest in Croatia for a long time.
I did make it to Split and I was punished for my outburst. While departing the train, I slipped and pulled a calf muscle. Luckily, it was dark and my directions to the sobe where significantly bad as to have me wander around for nearly an hour lugging my full backup and school pack while dragging my left leg along side me. On a bright note, the sobe is lovely.
I must admit that I finally lost my temper at a European today. I had arrived at the Zagreb train station and I was trying to buy the next available train ticket to Split. I started at the information window which sent me to the train information window. Unsurprisingly, she sent me to the ticketing window at the other side of the station. After waiting in line for 20 minutes, I get to the counter and attempt to by a ticket. I am refused. The teller tells me no. Her command of English revolves around “no” and “information booth”. I return to train information line and queue. What is interesting is that the train information person does not speak English well and refers me to the basic information queue. There I am told that everything is ok and that I must have been standing in the international line. I assure here that I was not since I stood in the line that did not have the word “international” in it. She shrugged and directed back across the station from whence I came. Once again, I was refused and sent back to information. At information, I am finally told that the computers are down and that they can not sell tickets. What! People are buying tickets as we speak. She shrugged again and wandered away. Back to the train line, I went. I was in luck to get the same woman for the third time. I asked for a ticket to Split once again. She shook her head and said something to the young woman at the next counter who, in passable English, asked me what was wrong. I said that I wanted to buy a ticket to Split. Her response was predictable.
Ticket Seller #2: Sorry. We can not sell tickets. Computers are down.
Me: What. Wait. What did you just give to that woman? (Pointing to Woman in line 2.) (WTF – A man behind me in line #1 had just bought a ticket! Everyone is buying tickets!!!!!!)
Ticket Seller #2: A train ticket.
Me to Strange Women buying ticket: Excuse me, where is the ticket for?
Strange Women buying ticket: Split
Me: You sell her a ticket to Split but you will not sell one to me?
Ticket Seller #2: Yes, she is going today to Split.
Me: So am I.
Ticket Seller #2: Then you already have a ticket?
(long diatribe follows)
I am going to stop here and say that I am humbly grateful for the designers of plexiglass and the thoughtful engineer that decided that it was only necessary to have two small hole - one for the passage of money/tickets and the other for sound. If not for these two things, I may have been a guest in Croatia for a long time.
I did make it to Split and I was punished for my outburst. While departing the train, I slipped and pulled a calf muscle. Luckily, it was dark and my directions to the sobe where significantly bad as to have me wander around for nearly an hour lugging my full backup and school pack while dragging my left leg along side me. On a bright note, the sobe is lovely.
Sunday, September 7, 2008
Leaving Paris tomorrow
My time is up in Paris. I hope to return someday. Paris is a beautiful city with a near endless supply of activities. Public transportation is great and the parks are wonderful. The citizenry just needs to work on the quality of food. I intentionally did not go to a few important places so as to provide additional impetus to return. Also, I wish to spend time in the real France; those areas not Paris. Hey, anyone interested in hiking the Pilgrim's trail in 2011 or 2012? Let me know.
I fly to Prague first thing in the morning. It is good to get back on the road. I am excited. I bought a real backpack the other day. I think it will be easier to get around with the pack instead of a suit case. It is also much hipper - that's what I am all about!
I fly to Prague first thing in the morning. It is good to get back on the road. I am excited. I bought a real backpack the other day. I think it will be easier to get around with the pack instead of a suit case. It is also much hipper - that's what I am all about!
Saturday, September 6, 2008
Critical French Phrase & What's Hot
Without question the most important French phrase that needs to be learned is “carafe de l'eau”, pronounced “Ka-raft Dough”. In Paris, you do not need to be polite. No: please, thank you, could you, I would like, etc, required. Simply “Ka-raft Dough”. You are saying “carafe of water” - 'nough said.
Why is this important? If you are an American, you expect water, you need water. Plain water. No gas - regular god-given clean non-carbonated free H20. I can understand the German's predilection for gassing things, it is almost genetic for them, but what is up with the rest of the Europeans? With this phrase, you will get something to drink. Additional plus, they do not charge for it. Soda is too expensive and if you simply ask for water, they will bring you bottled water – with or without gas, but with an extra item on you bill. Why pay for what should be free?
I do not remember if I have already mentioned that there are two hot things this summer in Paris, so I will mention it again. One, hamburgers. Really expensive hamburgers. Eaten with a knife and fork. Usually open face. I ask you – what is the point? Two, tights. Women are wearing tights. Well, I think that is what they are called. Whatever they are called, they look wonderful on women with great or even good shaped legs. Anything to enhance a woman's legs is wonderful idea in my book. I approve.
Why is this important? If you are an American, you expect water, you need water. Plain water. No gas - regular god-given clean non-carbonated free H20. I can understand the German's predilection for gassing things, it is almost genetic for them, but what is up with the rest of the Europeans? With this phrase, you will get something to drink. Additional plus, they do not charge for it. Soda is too expensive and if you simply ask for water, they will bring you bottled water – with or without gas, but with an extra item on you bill. Why pay for what should be free?
I do not remember if I have already mentioned that there are two hot things this summer in Paris, so I will mention it again. One, hamburgers. Really expensive hamburgers. Eaten with a knife and fork. Usually open face. I ask you – what is the point? Two, tights. Women are wearing tights. Well, I think that is what they are called. Whatever they are called, they look wonderful on women with great or even good shaped legs. Anything to enhance a woman's legs is wonderful idea in my book. I approve.
Wednesday, September 3, 2008
Making a decision
For the past week or so I have been attempting to come to a decision concerning where I will go next in Europe. Technically, the decision has already been made. I have a plane ticket to Prague for the 8th and a ticket to Barcelona, from Vienna, for the 15th. I bought the tickets before leaving for Europe with the understanding that I could change my itinerary, if so desired. So many places and things to do. O my! Tons of alternative travel plans floating around my frontal lobe. A difficult decision. So much so that I finally decided to flip a coin and let Lady luck decide for me. Adding a little directed randomness into my life can not hurt, right? Heads I stay with my original plan; tails I change my travel plans. So while walking home today, I
- pulled a nice shiny coin from my pocket and placed it on my thumb
- sent a quick pray to Fortuna to ensure that if I fail to catch the coin, it will not land on its side
- hmmm, what do you call the thumb flicking process? ... whatever; I do it
Tuesday, September 2, 2008
Musée Guimet - Closed due to ??
I planned on going to the Musée Guimet today. Actually, I intended to go this past weekend, however, it was closed due to a security issue. It was to have re-opened by now but the website still says it is closed. This time it states that there were injuries and a review is taking place. Not sure what happened.
Not one to complain, I instead went to the Musée d'Orsay. Without question, the d'Orsay is the most beautiful train station I have ever visited. Remove all of the displayed artwork and the interior is still fascinating. Return the statues and you have a feast for the eyes. This is definitely a place I will visit whenever I return to Paris . I particular love the layout and how small exhibit areas are neatly tucked away in such a seemingly open space. I felt like clapping with gee when I came across the miniature cityscape displayed by way of a glass ceiling/floor. I am possibly disappointed in that I did not bring my camera. Without the camera I focus solely on the moment; with the camera I take a near endless supply of crappy pictures that will assist me in remembering what I saw.
After d'Orsay, I started wandering back to the apartment and came upon the Musée Rodin. After a few minutes of thought, I decided to enter. I should remind myself more often that I do occasionally make the right decision. Here is my evidence. The Rodin museum is a perfect combination of garden and art. Just enough art to enhance gods' glorious roses; benches discreetly placed to allow peaceful reflection on the creations of nature and man. If you wish to skip the small art collection in the building and just visit the gardens, you can purchase a ticket for the garden for €1. I am going to try and get back to the garden, this time with my camera.
Not one to complain, I instead went to the Musée d'Orsay. Without question, the d'Orsay is the most beautiful train station I have ever visited. Remove all of the displayed artwork and the interior is still fascinating. Return the statues and you have a feast for the eyes. This is definitely a place I will visit whenever I return to Paris . I particular love the layout and how small exhibit areas are neatly tucked away in such a seemingly open space. I felt like clapping with gee when I came across the miniature cityscape displayed by way of a glass ceiling/floor. I am possibly disappointed in that I did not bring my camera. Without the camera I focus solely on the moment; with the camera I take a near endless supply of crappy pictures that will assist me in remembering what I saw.
After d'Orsay, I started wandering back to the apartment and came upon the Musée Rodin. After a few minutes of thought, I decided to enter. I should remind myself more often that I do occasionally make the right decision. Here is my evidence. The Rodin museum is a perfect combination of garden and art. Just enough art to enhance gods' glorious roses; benches discreetly placed to allow peaceful reflection on the creations of nature and man. If you wish to skip the small art collection in the building and just visit the gardens, you can purchase a ticket for the garden for €1. I am going to try and get back to the garden, this time with my camera.
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